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Su (酢)

Miso - soybean paste Sour flavor, which is the product of bacterial fermentation of alcohol made from fruits and grains to produce vinegar, or simply the sourness derived from acidic fruits, such as lemons, is one of the key taste sensations of human beings. The first official mention of rice vinegar production appeared in the Engi-Shiki, the Laws and Regulations published in A.D. 908. In these early centuries, vinegar played an important role in preserving food, in addition to adding sourness to prepared dishes. Today, we use rice vinegar to produce dishes with a refreshing acidity (suited to the hot summer climate), to balance the flavor of dishes — vinegar cuts saltiness, sweetness, bitterness and oiliness — and to mimic the similar sourness, which was once acquired through the long fermentation process of foods being preserved for later consumption. Cooked rice tossed with rice vinegar and a little salt and sugar creates instant sushi rice. Tossing a similar mixture with sliced vegetables produces quick pickles. Vinegar has merits other than providing tart flavor to prepared dishes. The various amino and organic acids present in rice vinegar help to improve the diner’s appetite and promote good digestion. Acetic acid also slows the multiplication of harmful food-borne bacteria.

Introduction

Su is categorized into two groups according to the production methods. Rice vinegar, brown rice vinegar and grain vinegars comprise Vinegar Group A. They are produced by adding acetic acid-forming bacteria to the alcohol made from the grain. The second group, black vinegar, utilizes a unique production technique. Traditionally, the conversion of the starch in rice to sugar and then to alcohol and the conversion of alcohol to acid occurs in a sequence, or one process after another, in a large ceramic fermentation pot in which all of the materials - koji mold (a fermentation starter), steamed rice, spring water and additional koji mold - are placed and left outside, exposed to the natural climate for over one year. Thus, each type of vinegar acquires colors, flavors and aromas that are quite different from one another, based on the natural environment. Of course, in current mass production facilities, the process is much more controlled and regulatd to produce a uniform, unvarying product. The average acidity of Japanese vinegar is 4.5% by volume, which is lower than typical Western vinegars.

Grain Vinegar

Kokumotsusu (穀物酢)

Made from a mixture of grains, such as rice and wheat, plus corn, sugar cane or beans, its aroma has a striking sourness, unlike the subtle flavor found in other vinegars. It is good for rinsing and curing oily types of fish for sushi and sashimi, pickling vegetables and sterilizing the chopping board.

Rice Vinegar

Komesu (米酢)
Genmaisu (玄米酢)

Rice vinegar is made from polished and unpolished brown rice. The former is komesu, the most popular vinegar in Japan, and the latter is genmaisu. Komesu and genmaisu, both produced from 100% rice, are identified by their names, jun-komesu (pure rice vinegar) and jun- genmaisu (pure brown rice vinegar), respectively. Jun-komesu has a glossy, golden yellow color and its aroma and taste is rich and round. Ordinary komesu has mellower characteristics. Both are good for sushi rice, dressings, sauces and braising chicken and meat. Genmaisu has a dark brown color, robust aroma and distinctive acidity, which are enveloped by a rich flavor, resulting from ample amino acids. Genmaisu is good for sauces in strongly flavored dishes, such as gyoza (pot stickers) and ramen noodles (Chinese style noodles in pork and chicken-based hot broth), or for adding to any dishes where its sharp acidity and good flavor can cut the oiliness.

Black Vinegar

Kurozu (黒酢)

Kurozu is traditionally produced in Kyushu, the southern large island of Japan, from partially polished brown rice. To make kurozu, a unique production method is used that employs more rice than that used for making ordinary rice vinegar. The resulting vinegar has a sleek, deep dark color, an earthy and rich flavor and a well-balanced acidity. These characteristics make kurozu excellent for use in Chinese style stir fry dishes and for braising fatty cuts of meat. The kurozu in these preparations “cuts” and balances the somewhat oily nature of these types of dishes.

Su Modern Recipe

Shrimp in Spicy, Sweet and Sour Sauce

Distinctive Japanese brown rice vinegar adds depth of flavor to this sweet-sour shrimp dish. Serve the dish with lettuce and steamed plain rice.

R E C I P E (2 to 4 servings)

10 ounces small shrimp
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sake (rice wine)
1/4 teaspoon white pepper powder
1/2 egg white from small egg
1 tablespoon potato starch
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/4 cup minced white part of a scallion
Vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon tobanjiang (Chinese chili bean sauce) 2 tablespoons ketchup
1/2 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons genmai su (brown rice vinegar) 1 tablespoon sugar
1 ounce baby mustard greens

Clean and rinse the shrimp. Transfer to a bowl, toss with salt, white pepper powder, sake, potato starch and egg white. Let the shrimp stand for 20 minutes. In a medium pot, bring plenty of water to boil. Add the shrimp and cook until the outside turns pink. Remove the shrimp and drain thoroughly. In a wok, add tablespoons of vegetable oil and sauté he ginger, garlic, scallions, ketchup and toban jiang. When the mixture is fragrant, add the shrimp and cook until firm, or about 80% done.
Add the chicken broth, vinegar, sugar and additional sake to flavor and cook until the sauce thickens. Add the baby mustrd greens and toss. Remove from heat.

Su Traditional Recipe

Sushi Salad
(Chirashi-Zushi)

This colorful, fun and delicious sushi has many regional variations.

R E C I P E (6 servings)

3 cups short-grain or medium grain rice
5 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons of sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon of salt
6 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in cold water overnight
Twelve 8-inch long strips of kanpyo gourd, soaked in cold water overnight
Shoyu and sugar for flavorng
7 ounces carrot, cut into 2-inch long julienne strips
7 ounces lotus root, peeled, sliced thin
15 medium shrimp, cooked, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch thick slices
1/4 cup white sesame seeds
8 thin omelets (10-inch x 6-inch rectangles) from 4 large eggs; cut into thin julienne strips
2 nori (seaweed) sheets, cut into thin strips
1 cup parboiled green peas

Place the carrot into a saucepan and add enough water to cover it. Bring it to a boil and cook 3 minutes. Add the sugar and salt to taste, and cook additional 2 minutes. Place the lotus root into another saucepan, add enough water to cover it and a tablespoon of the vinegar. Bring it to a boil and cook it for 15 minutes. Add the sugar and salt to taste.

In a shushi tub toss the sushi rice with all of the prepared ingredients except nori, omelet and 1/3 portion of green peas. Decorate the top of sushi with the nori, omelet and remaining green peas.

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